First Steps: prepwork for tanning

Skinning

  • Work with a fresh + cold fish fillet

  • Can start with a knife but mainly use a blunt tool (spoon, mussel shell) - or your hands

  • Hold your tool 90 degrees to the skin and scrape forward from tail to head until all meat is removed from the skin

  • Separate skin from meat + immediately cool the skin by placing it in a jar of salty cold water for 1-2 minutes

If we skin a fish that has been degraded (sat around too long), the meat will be mushy + challenging to separate cleanly. Easy fix: this will require more fleshing.


Fleshing

  • After cooling the skin, place it scale-side-down on a cutting board

  • Remove any meat (flesh) that remained on the skin, by scraping in a forward motion, holding a blunt tool 90 degrees to the skin

  • Try to remove the fuzzy grey material with the meat, but if it doesn’t budge, skip it until you membrane


De-scaling

  • After fleshing, flip the skin over so it is membrane-side-down on your cutting board

  • Remove the scales by gently scraping in a forward motion (tail to head), holding a blunt tool 90 degrees to the skin

  • Try to keep the scale pockets intact

  • Focus attention on the ridgeline of large fishes

  • Any stubborn scales can be skipped or else taken out with tweezers

Membraning

  • After de-scaling, flip the fishskin over so it is again scale-side-down on your cutting board

  • Remove the membrane by one of two ways (or both!):

    • firmly scraping in a forward motion (tail to head), holding a blunt tool 90 or 45 degrees to the skin

    • (larger fish) cutting a peice of membrane off near the tail and removing it in one piece with your hands

  • Get all the fuzzy gray material off now

{pause point} You can leave a scraped fishskin in cold water with 25% salt in the fridge for several days

Fat-liquoring

  • After membraning, wash the fishskin with a natural soap in cool to lukewarm water. This will both clean + alkalize it.

  • Pat the skin dry with a towel

  • Place the skin in a fat emulsion:

    • 100 ml liquid vegetable oil

    • 1 egg yolk (save the white for later)

    • 1 tsp natural liquid soap

  • Leave in a fat emulsion for 10 minutes


{pause point} You can roll up a fat-liquored fishskin and place it in a plastic bag in the fridge overnight (12 hours max)


Hang to dry

  • After fat-liquoring, wring the excess oil off the fishskin with your hands

  • Hang the skin somewhere airy + warm, ideally in the sun

  • Over the next several hours, stretch the skin periodically; say every ten to twenty minutes.


The goal of the last step is to ensure the skin doesn’t dry into crisp rawhide with compressed protein fibres. This is not a true softening but a preparatory step to ensure the fibre network stays open + receptive - necessary for oxidation over the next week.

First Steps: prepwork for tanninG

Washing

  • Wash the oxidized fish skin in a lukewarm bath with natural soap.

  • Wash and agitate until the skin softens and absorbs water, ie becomes wet.

  • No need to rinse the soap out.

  • Goals: remove innate oils from fish + rehydrate the skin/leather for softening.

Fat-liquoring

  • Put the skin/leather in the saved fat emulsion from earlier. Or make a fresh one with the same recipe.

  • Work the skins in the fat emulsion for 5-10 minutes.

  • Remove moisture by wringing them by hand + patting with a towel.

  • Hang to drip dry + begin softening at the PMC (perfect moisture content)

  • Goal: replace old fat with new for lubrication for softening.

Softening

  • First rule of softening: work a hide from wet → dry

  • Once a skin/leather reaches PMC, start stretching, twisting, and agitating it. Think about how a skin is made of strands + these need to be elongated + loosened.

  • Keep stretching a fishskin past the point it is dry. Fishskin will continue softening after its dry, unlike mammal skin. 

  • Use a (duller) dry-scraper as a softening tool + a cable if your hands get tired.Achieve a flatter, smoother leather pay laying the fishskin on a table as you soften.

  • Goal: supple leather than can be stitched

Dry-scraping

  • Once your fishskin leather is 80%+ dry, the membrane side will appear flaky + tissuey. It’s now ready to be removed through dry-scraping.

  • Use a pumice or (sharper) dry-scraper to coax membrane off the skin. Use sandpaper if that’s all you have. And/or use finer grit sandpaper at the very end for a more polished finish.

  • This work will also help soften the skin so do it in tandem with softening.

  • Goal: clean membrane side of your leather

Optional: 

  • Glazing works best on a smooth leather. If your leather has a lot of wrinkles and twists + you decide to glaze, you can spritz the leather with water and tack on a tackboard or put heavy books on it. Wait a while and then glaze.

  • Whip egg yolks with a blender or egg beater.

  • Brush or dab onto the scale side of the fishskin. Let it dry.

  • Once dried, rub the scale side of the leather over a table edge to polish it.