First Steps: prepwork for tanning
Skinning
Work with a fresh + cold fish fillet
Can start with a knife but mainly use a blunt tool (spoon, mussel shell) - or your hands
Hold your tool 90 degrees to the skin and scrape forward from tail to head until all meat is removed from the skin
Separate skin from meat + immediately cool the skin by placing it in a jar of salty cold water for 1-2 minutes
If we skin a fish that has been degraded (sat around too long), the meat will be mushy + challenging to separate cleanly. Easy fix: this will require more fleshing.
Fleshing
After cooling the skin, place it scale-side-down on a cutting board
Remove any meat (flesh) that remained on the skin, by scraping in a forward motion, holding a blunt tool 90 degrees to the skin
Try to remove the fuzzy grey material with the meat, but if it doesn’t budge, skip it until you membrane
De-scaling
After fleshing, flip the skin over so it is membrane-side-down on your cutting board
Remove the scales by gently scraping in a forward motion (tail to head), holding a blunt tool 90 degrees to the skin
Try to keep the scale pockets intact
Focus attention on the ridgeline of large fishes
Any stubborn scales can be skipped or else taken out with tweezers
Membraning
After de-scaling, flip the fishskin over so it is again scale-side-down on your cutting board
Remove the membrane by one of two ways (or both!):
firmly scraping in a forward motion (tail to head), holding a blunt tool 90 or 45 degrees to the skin
(larger fish) cutting a peice of membrane off near the tail and removing it in one piece with your hands
Get all the fuzzy gray material off now
{pause point} You can leave a scraped fishskin in cold water with 25% salt in the fridge for several days
Fat-liquoring
After membraning, wash the fishskin with a natural soap in cool to lukewarm water. This will both clean + alkalize it.
Pat the skin dry with a towel
Place the skin in a fat emulsion:
100 ml liquid vegetable oil
1 egg yolk (save the white for later)
1 tsp natural liquid soap
Leave in a fat emulsion for 10 minutes
{pause point} You can roll up a fat-liquored fishskin and place it in a plastic bag in the fridge overnight (12 hours max)
Hang to dry
After fat-liquoring, wring the excess oil off the fishskin with your hands
Hang the skin somewhere airy + warm, ideally in the sun
Over the next several hours, stretch the skin periodically; say every ten to twenty minutes.
The goal of the last step is to ensure the skin doesn’t dry into crisp rawhide with compressed protein fibres. This is not a true softening but a preparatory step to ensure the fibre network stays open + receptive - necessary for oxidation over the next week.
First Steps: prepwork for tanninG
Washing
Wash the oxidized fish skin in a lukewarm bath with natural soap.
Wash and agitate until the skin softens and absorbs water, ie becomes wet.
No need to rinse the soap out.
Goals: remove innate oils from fish + rehydrate the skin/leather for softening.
Fat-liquoring
Put the skin/leather in the saved fat emulsion from earlier. Or make a fresh one with the same recipe.
Work the skins in the fat emulsion for 5-10 minutes.
Remove moisture by wringing them by hand + patting with a towel.
Hang to drip dry + begin softening at the PMC (perfect moisture content)
Goal: replace old fat with new for lubrication for softening.
Softening
First rule of softening: work a hide from wet → dry
Once a skin/leather reaches PMC, start stretching, twisting, and agitating it. Think about how a skin is made of strands + these need to be elongated + loosened.
Keep stretching a fishskin past the point it is dry. Fishskin will continue softening after its dry, unlike mammal skin.
Use a (duller) dry-scraper as a softening tool + a cable if your hands get tired.Achieve a flatter, smoother leather pay laying the fishskin on a table as you soften.
Goal: supple leather than can be stitched
Dry-scraping
Once your fishskin leather is 80%+ dry, the membrane side will appear flaky + tissuey. It’s now ready to be removed through dry-scraping.
Use a pumice or (sharper) dry-scraper to coax membrane off the skin. Use sandpaper if that’s all you have. And/or use finer grit sandpaper at the very end for a more polished finish.
This work will also help soften the skin so do it in tandem with softening.
Goal: clean membrane side of your leather
Optional:
Glazing works best on a smooth leather. If your leather has a lot of wrinkles and twists + you decide to glaze, you can spritz the leather with water and tack on a tackboard or put heavy books on it. Wait a while and then glaze.
Whip egg yolks with a blender or egg beater.
Brush or dab onto the scale side of the fishskin. Let it dry.
Once dried, rub the scale side of the leather over a table edge to polish it.